Doo Lough Valley to Westport
An Afternoon of Laughter and Sorrow
Doo Lough – A Desolate Valley with a Grim Story to Match
North of Leenane, the green rolling hills gave way to a rocky, barren countryside. The road was surrounded by windswept mountains.
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We stopped at the Famine Cross, and Paul told us the story of poor families who trekked through the area during the Great Irish Famine. Several hundred starving people walked about 12 miles in bitter cold, rainy weather to ask for food. When they reached the landlord's house, they were turned away. On the difficult journey back home, a number of them perished.
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When Native Americans of the Choctaw Nation heard about the famine, they collected the equivalent of over $5000 in today's money and sent it to Ireland. This was not long after their own "trail of tears." The connection between the Choctaw and the Irish continues. In 2020, the Irish reciprocated, beginning a campaign to support the COVID relief efforts for Native Americans. In recent years, Choctaw leaders have come to Ireland to participate in the annual commemoration walk in the Doo Lough Valley.
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I was nearly in tears when Paul finished the story.
The inscription beneath the Famine Cross reads:
"To commemorate the hungry poor who walked here in 1849 and walk the world today
Freedom for South Africa 1994
How can men feel themselves honoured by the humiliation of their fellow beings."
– Mahatma Gandhi in South Africa
From Grim to Lighthearted
Paul then passed out wee glasses of Baileys and invited us to toast our new friendships and our shared journey. Afterwards, he lined us up in two rows and instructed one side to jump. Those standing on the opposite side felt the ground shake. We were Bog Jumping!
Coffin Ship Sculpture
We had one last stop before arriving at Westport. Our collective mood shifted again as we approached the National Famine Memorial – a modern bronze sculpture of a coffin ship covered in skeleton bodies. Paul played a haunting ballad called "The Fields of Athenry" about an Irishman who was sent away on a prison ship for stealing corn to feed his family.
Westport – Another Tidy Town!
The day ended well as we settled into the comfortable Westport Clew Bay Hotel.
The hotel owner gave us a detailed introduction to varied qualities of good and great Irish whiskey and then tutored us in the steps for making a perfect Irish coffee. We all succeeded marvelously!
Sláinte!
Sights in Westport – A stroll around town is a great way to meet the locals!
