Daniel O'Connell
General
Post Office
Jim
Larkin
Setting the Stage
Our First Look at Dublin's Sights & Ireland's Heroes & Conflicts
Arrival in Dublin, Ireland – August 26, 2022
Buswells Hotel
The stately, Georgian-style hotel served as our home for four nights in Dublin. Upon arrival from San Diego via London, we dined in the relaxing hotel bar at Buswells. Our pick: seafood chowder and our first glass of Guinness!
The centrally located Buswells was two blocks from the large park at St. Stephen's Green, a short walk to the nearest bus stop and just over a half mile walk to the O'Connell Bridge at the River Liffey.
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Rick Steves' Commitment:
Centrally Located Hotels
Pre-Tour – Must See Sights
Tip: Arrive a few days before the tour to adjust to jet lag.
We had two full days to explore Dublin and check out some of the sights that wouldn't be included in the tour itinerary. Gary, our history buff, was anxious to see the General Post Office (GPO), site of the 1916 Easter Rising. I wanted to get oriented and thought the River Liffey was a great place to start. Dublin's lively Grafton Street led us to the Liffey where we took a slight detour to see the iconic Ha' Penny Bridge.
Ha' Penny Bridge
Crossing the river at the nearby O'Connell Bridge, we were greeted by a statue of the "Liberator," Daniel O'Connell, Ireland's champion of Irish Catholic rights in the 19th century, and Jim Larkin, one of the founders of the Irish Labour Party (photos above at page top).
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The GPO was the rebel headquarters during the six-day Easter Rising against the British. History came alive with our visit to the comprehensive GPO Witness History exhibit, filled with detailed artifacts, video re-enactments and firsthand accounts of the Rising.
Gary pointed out the bullet holes on the columns of the General Post Office.
Next Stop: Collins Barracks
Tip: Public transportation is fast and efficient in European cities.
We bought Leap cards, and rode the red LUAS tram west. It was easy to top off our cards the next day for a bus ride to Glasnevin Cemetery. With the card, all rides are cashless!
Tip: Check out websites for scheduled tours.
We discovered that we could join a free tour, "From Barracks to Museum," at the Collins Barracks. A former military barracks, the site now houses the National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts and History. The tour provided incite into daily life of British soldiers and the architectural conversion of the buildings to a National Museum.
The highlight of the tour was a 4 x 8 foot table covering known as the Stokes Tapestry. Between 1833 and 1853, Stephen Stokes appliquéd 250 figures during his time in the British army and the Dublin Police. The tapestry is a great historical record of 19th century life and important events, including the visit of Queen Victoria to Ireland.
Click here to learn more.
Collins Barracks
Once a barracks for British troops, the building is now the National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts and History.
Thin Lizzy Concert
The central courtyard, where troops used to assemble, is now an event venue. Set-up was underway for the evening concert.
Located on the barracks grounds, the restored ship was once used by the rebels in 1914 to smuggle guns from Germany.
The Asgard
A Short Walk from the Barracks
The Cobblestone Pub is one of the few places to catch traditional Irish music on weekend afternoons, as most pubs only feature music after 9:00 PM.
Nearby, the Old Jameson Distillery was buzzing with whiskey fans...too packed for us!
Becoming Part of the Local Scene
Saturday, August 27 – day before the tour
Everywhere we went, we saw Nebraska football fans, in town for an exhibition game. Gary grew up in Nebraska and delighted in shouting "Go Big Red" whenever we ran into fans sporting red caps and jackets.
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Strolling back along Grafton Street, we spotted the Rick Steves' recommended restaurant, Davy Byrnes, on a busy side street. We snagged a front row outdoor seat where we could view the interesting parade of characters, dressed in their finest weekend attire!
